Thomas w



(ModeL) T. W. BRAGHER. Sweat for Hats, 8L0.

Patented m 13, 1880.

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New n Q N. PEFERS, PHOTD-LITHOGRAPNER. WASiIjNGTO 0.6.

UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

THOMAS W. BRAGHER,'OF NEW YORK, N. Y.

SWEAT FOR HATS, ac.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 229,949, dated July 13, 1880. Application filed May 21,1880. (ModeL) To all whom it may concern Be it known that I, THOMAS W. BRACHER, a citizen of the United States, residing at New York, in the county of New York and State of New York, have invented new and useful Improvements in Sweats for Hats or Caps, of which the following is a specification.

This invention relates especially to that class of sweats embodying a lining for attaching the same to a hat or cap, such lining generally forming also a cover or envelope for a reed, wire, or cord. and as such being commonly termed a reed-cover.

An objection to this class of sweats is that the article has a plain edgethat is to say, it lacks the stitches which appear on the outer edge of a sweat when it is attached to a hat by hand-whipping or overhand stitching, and to obtain that appearance the lining or reedcover has beenattached to the sweat by handwhipping but this operation obviously involves considerable labor and renders the article comparatively expensive.

One feature of my invention consists in a peculiar arrangement of machine-stitches for attaching the lining or reed-cover to the sweat, whereby a whipped appearance is given to the edge of the sweat when it is put into a hat; also, in a peculiar reed-cover; and, further, in a certain novel method of stitching sweats for ornamental purposes, all of which is hereinafter fully described, and pointed out in the claims.

This invention is illustrated in the accompanying drawings, in which Figure 1 represents a face view. Fig. 2 is a cross-section. Fig. 3 is a top-edge view. Fig. 4 is a rear view, and Figs. 5, 6, 7, and 8. show modifications.

Similar letters indicate corresponding parts.

The letter A designates the sweat or sweatleather, and B the lining or reed-cover, the latter being bent around the reed or its substitute in the usual manner. That portion of the reed-cover B inclosing the reed or its substitute projects beyond the lower or outer edge of the sweat A, and the whole is attached to the sweat by a double row of stitches, c 0, connected together, one penetrating the lining or v reed-cover next to the edge of the sweat without going through the latter,-and the other penetrating both the sweat and the lining or reed-cover inward or upward from such edge. The connecting parts or members of the double row of stitches c c-namely, those portions thereof whereby the two are joined togetherare on the face or front side of the sweat A, as at 0 and said connecting members are substantially parallel to each other, as indicated in Figs. 1, 5, and 8. The double row of stitches c c is produced on a machine having two needles and a shuttle common to both needles, the connecting parts or members 0 of the stitches being the thread-loops of one of the needles, an d the same being drawn toward and connected with the thread-loops of the other needle by the shuttle-thread. When the stitches c c are produced in this manner, the sweat is laid upside down namely with its ,face resting on the cloth-plate of the machine but the stitches can also be produced on a machine having a single needle by moving the sweat or needle, or both, in an appropriate manner, face upward,

or on a machine having horizontally-movable needles. The double row of stitches c c is thus produced in a very rapid manner, and it is a medium for securely attaching the lining or reed-cover B to the sweat A,.while when the sweat is put into a hat the connecting members a? of the stitches are brought to a position in which they have the appearance of superior and careful hand-whippin g, and hence a very handsome effect is thereby produced. The outer row of stitches, c, moreover, being immediately next to the edge of the sweat A, serves to hide such edge, which is a desideratum.

The lining or reed-cover B may be so adjusted that both rows of stitches, c c, are brought within or inside of the reed or its substitute on the sweat, as indicated in Figs. 1,

2, and 4, or so that the stitches are brought to the exposed portion of the lining or reedcover B, and the latter is rendered highly ornamental as well as useful.

In some cases the reed or its substitute is provided with a facing of silk or other material, and in that case the facing becomes the portion of the reed which is visiblethrough the open-work cover.

Near the upper or inner edge of the sweat A is a row of stitches, e, which is applied thereto chiefly for the purpose of ornamentation. This row of stitches e is produced on a machine having two needles and a shuttle common to both needles by the following method, namely: by guiding the sweat-fabric in such a manner that one needle penetrates the same near the desired edge, while the other needle works exterior of such edge without penetrating the fabric. In this manner the shuttle is made to catch the thread-loops of both needles, but without drawing the same tight, as when both needles pass through a fabric, the thread-loop of the inner needle being drawn toward the thread-loop of the outer needle, and being left to project from the fabric, as indicated in Fig. 3. By this method I obtain a row of loose stitches in imitation of braid or crochet-work. which materially improves the appearance-of the sweat.

The connecting parts or members 0 of the double row of stitches may be arranged at right angles to the edge of the sweat A, as shown in Figs. 1 and 5 or they may be inclined to such edge, as shown in Fig.8. The double row of stitches c c, moreover, may be used for attaching a lining, B, to the upper edge of the sweat A, as shown in Fig. 2.

I do not claim anything shown or described in the patents of John Bigelow, dated January 1, 1878, No. and August 5, 1879, No. 218,220; but

What I claim as new, and desire to secure by Letters Patent, is-

l. The combination, in a sweat for hats or caps, of a lining or reed-cover projecting beyond one edge of the sweat and attached thereto by a double row of machine-stitches connected together, one penetrating the lining or reed-cover alone at or near the edgeof the sweat and the other penetrating both the sweat and the lining or reed-cover inward or upward from such edge, the connecting parts or members of the stitches being on the face of the sweat and being substantially parallel to each other, as and for the purpose described.

2. The combination, with a sweat-leather for hats or caps, of an attached reed or cord cover composed of lace orother open-work fabric, to render visible the reed or its facing, as shown and described.

3. The within-described method of stitching sweats for ornamental purposes on amachine with two needles and a shuttle common to both needles, consisting in allowing one needle to penetrate the fabric near one of its edges and the other to work exterior of such edge without penetrating the fabric, so that the shuttle catches the thread-loops of both needles, but leaves the same in a loose condition, thus producing a row of stitches in imitation of braid or crochet-work, as shown and described.

4. As a new article of manufacture, a sweat for hats or caps having a reed-cover attached thereto by machine-stitches in imitation of hand-whipping, substantially as shown and described.

In testimony whereof I have hereunto set my hand and seal in the presence of two subscribing witnesses.

THOMAS W. BRAOHER. [L.

Witnesses W. HAUFF, Guns. WAHLERS. 

